A well-built teardrop camper should give you 15 to 20 years of trips — but only if you look after it. The good news is that a teardrop is the easiest recreational vehicle in Australia to maintain: there's no slide-out mechanism, no canvas tent to dry and re-proof, and no complicated bathroom plumbing. The catch is that Australian conditions are genuinely hard on trailers. Coastal salt air, corrugated outback tracks, and UV that ages rubber and paint faster than almost anywhere on earth all take their toll — and most of the problems owners actually experience are completely preventable with a couple of hours of attention a year.
Short answer: Look after a teardrop camper in Australia with a ten-minute walk-around check before and after every trip (tyres, wheel nuts, lights, electric brakes, coupling, water and battery), a light inspection every one to three months, and a proper service every 6–12 months or 10,000 km — repacking the wheel bearings, adjusting the brakes, sanitising the water tank and checking the seals and wiring.
The three things that matter most: keep the running gear serviced so you're safe at highway speed, fight corrosion if you camp near the coast, and store the camper dry with the battery at the right charge. Doing it yourself costs roughly $100–$150 a year.
This guide gives you the full picture for keeping a teardrop in top shape in 2026: what to check, how often, what it costs, and where coastal and outback owners need to do more than the manual says. Whether you've just picked up a brand-new Hip Summit or Hip Companion or you're caring for a second-hand trailer, the routine below applies across the board. Most of it you can do in the driveway with a hose, a grease gun and a multimeter.
Why a Teardrop Is Easier to Maintain Than a Caravan
A teardrop has a tiny maintenance footprint compared with a caravan or a folding camper trailer. There's no awning motor, no slide topper, and — on a hard-shell teardrop — no canvas to re-proof, no poles to replace, and no tent to dry before storage. That single difference removes the most common maintenance failure in the Australian camper market: mould and rot in canvas. If you're weighing your options, our teardrop vs caravan comparison and teardrop vs campervan guide break the trade-offs down in full.
What you're left maintaining on a teardrop comes down to five systems: the chassis and body, the running gear (wheel bearings, tyres, brakes, suspension), the 12V power system (battery, solar, wiring), the water system, and the seals, hinges and latches. A quality build shrinks even that list. Hip campers use a hot-dip galvanised chassis and standard electric brakes precisely because galvanising and proper braking are what survive Australian roads — we explain the engineering choices in our build-quality guide.
Your Teardrop Maintenance Schedule at a Glance
Here's the complete schedule in one table. Adjust the frequency up if you tow on dirt, camp near the coast, or do long trips — and down if you do the occasional sealed-road weekend in a mild climate. Print it, stick it in the galley, and you'll never wonder what's due.
| Task | Before every trip | Every 1–3 months | Every 6 months | Every 12 months |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tyre pressure & tread (incl. spare) | ✓ | |||
| Wheel nuts torqued | ✓ | |||
| Lights, indicators & electric brake test | ✓ | |||
| Coupling, safety chains & jockey wheel | ✓ | |||
| Battery charge & solar panel clean | ✓ | ✓ (in storage) | ||
| Exterior wash + fresh-water rinse | after coastal/dirt | |||
| Door, hatch & galley seals inspect | ✓ | |||
| Wheel bearing inspect | ✓ | |||
| Wheel bearing repack | coastal | ✓ inland | ||
| Electric brake magnet & adjustment | coastal | ✓ inland | ||
| Water tank sanitise & flush | ✓ | ✓ | ||
| Suspension, shackles & U-bolts | ✓ | |||
| Full underbody corrosion check | ✓ | |||
| Exterior sealant / silicone refresh | every 2–3 yr |
Common Teardrop Camper Problems (and How to Prevent Them)
Camper trailers as a category have a genuine fault problem: when the ACCC surveyed 2,270 owners for its 2022 New Caravan Retailing report, around 80% reported at least one fault — we unpack the full picture in our build-quality guide. A hard-shell teardrop has far fewer systems to go wrong, but the faults that do turn up are predictable. Here are the seven you're most likely to meet, how each announces itself early, and what prevents it.
| Problem | Early warning sign | Prevention | DIY or workshop? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Worn wheel bearings | Growl that rises with road speed; hub hot after a drive | Inspect & repack to the intervals in Table 3 | DIY if confident; workshop $150–$300 per axle |
| Electric brakes out of adjustment | Weak braking; controller gain creeping up; trailer nudging the car downhill | Adjust every 6–12 months; test before every trip | DIY or workshop |
| 12V gremlins (flat battery, dead sockets) | Dim lights, slow pump, sagging voltage readout | Clean terminals, keep the solar panel clean, store the battery at 50–60% | DIY diagnosis with a multimeter; wiring faults to an electrician |
| Water ingress at seals | Musty smell; damp mattress corner; water stains after rain | Condition seals twice a year; refresh silicone every 2–3 years | DIY |
| Tyre age & flat-spotting | Sidewall cracking; vibration at speed; DOT date over 5 years old | Replace at 5–7 years regardless of tread; move the trailer during storage | Tyre fitter |
| Corrosion on fasteners & connectors | White or rust bloom on bolts; green crust inside plugs | Same-day rinse after coastal trips; annual lanolin spray | DIY |
| Door & hatch misalignment | Latch needs a slam; uneven seal gap; daylight at a corner | Lubricate hinges; re-check latches after corrugated roads | DIY tweak; workshop if it keeps moving |
Notice what's missing: canvas rot, awning motors and slide-out failures — the faults that dominate caravan complaints have no hardware to fail on a hard-shell teardrop. Every row above is caught by the schedule in Table 1, and if a 12V gremlin survives a terminal clean and a fuse check, our 12V power systems guide maps the whole system for tracing it.
Before and After Every Trip
The single best habit you can build is a quick walk-around before you hit the road and again when you get home. It takes ten minutes and catches small issues before they become expensive ones. A loose hatch, a soft tyre or a coupling that isn't seated are exactly the things that ruin an otherwise good weekend.
Before You Leave
- Tyres: Check pressure with a gauge when the tyres are cold — don't just eyeball it. Inflate to the recommended PSI on the tyre placard, and scan for cracks, bulges or uneven wear.
- Wheel nuts: Confirm they're torqued, especially in the first 50–100 km after any wheel has been off.
- Lights and brakes: Have someone stand behind the trailer while you test brake lights, indicators, tail lights and the number-plate light. With electric brakes fitted as standard on a Hip camper, confirm the brake controller produces noticeable drag when you nudge it manually.
- Coupling: Make sure the coupling is fully seated on the tow ball (Hip campers use a standard 50 mm ball), the safety chains are crossed and connected, the breakaway cable is attached, and the jockey wheel is retracted and locked.
- Water: Fill your fresh-water tank and run the pump briefly to confirm flow to the taps. Check underneath for drips.
- Battery: Confirm the 120Ah LiFePO4 battery is charged, the 100W solar panel is clean, and the inverter kicks in when you switch it on.
- Doors and hatches: Make sure everything latches securely. Loose hatches can fly open on the highway — it happens more often than you'd think.
If you want the full printable version, our teardrop camping checklist covers the complete pre-departure rundown.
When You Get Home
- Wash the exterior to remove road grime, dust and bug splatter before it bakes on.
- Empty and rinse the water tanks, and leave the taps open.
- Clean out the galley — crumbs attract ants faster than you'd believe.
- Open the cabin and let it air out for a few hours to prevent moisture build-up.
- Top the battery up if it needs it before it goes back into storage.
Exterior and Body Care
Keep the body clean and sealed, and it will look sharp and stay watertight for decades. Australian conditions put your teardrop through the same sun, dust and rain as your car, so treat it like a vehicle rather than an afterthought.
Wash the body with warm water, a mild automotive soap and a soft microfibre cloth or sponge. Avoid harsh solvents, abrasive pads and high-pressure jets aimed directly at seals — they strip wax and force water past silicone. Twice a year, apply a quality automotive polish or a ceramic-style protectant; it adds a real barrier against the UV chalking that fades paint and finishes in the Australian sun. If your teardrop has any exposed aluminium, a dedicated aluminium polish keeps it bright and prevents oxidation.
Seals and Weather Stripping
This is the one area where a little vigilance pays off enormously. The rubber seals around doors, hatches and windows are your first line of defence against water ingress. Check them every one to three months for cracking, gaps or sections that have pulled away, and clean them so grit doesn't chew them up. A leaking seal that goes unnoticed leads to mould, musty smells and interior damage that costs far more to fix than a strip of new rubber.
Treat the seals with a silicone-based rubber conditioner a couple of times a year to keep them supple. Lubricate hinges, gas struts and the galley hatch arms with a dry PTFE or silicone spray — avoid heavy oils that attract dust. Refresh the exterior silicone sealant around fans, hatches, lights and any roof fittings every two to three years, before it perishes. If a section of weather stripping is damaged beyond conditioning, replace it promptly.
Tyre Maintenance
Tyres are one of the most important safety components on your camper, and they're often neglected because they "look fine." Trailer tyres also wear differently to car tyres because they don't steer or drive — they just follow — so they need their own attention.
- Pressure: Check before every trip when the tyres are cold. Under-inflated tyres build excess heat and can blow out at highway speeds; over-inflated tyres reduce grip and wear unevenly. Match the pressure to the load: a fully-loaded camper near its 1,500 kg ATM needs more than an empty one.
- Rotation: If your teardrop carries a spare, rotate it into the cycle every 10,000 km or so. This evens out wear and keeps the spare road-ready rather than slowly degrading in the dark.
- Age: Even with plenty of tread, trailer tyres "age out" before they wear out. UV and heat break the rubber down, so replace tyres older than five to seven years regardless of tread depth. Check the DOT date code on the sidewall to confirm their age, and dispose of old tyres responsibly through a scheme such as Tyre Stewardship Australia.
- Spare: A flat spare is as useful as no spare. Check its pressure and condition whenever you check the others.
Quick tip: Flat spots can develop if a trailer sits in one position for months. If you're storing your teardrop for an extended period, move it forward or back a metre every few weeks, or put it on jack stands to take the weight off the tyres entirely.
Wheel Bearings, Brakes and Running Gear
This is the maintenance that keeps you safe at 100 km/h, and the one most owners put off until a hub seizes on the highway. The running gear is worth taking seriously.
Wheel Bearings
Wheel bearings should be inspected and repacked with fresh grease on a schedule that matches how hard you use the camper. Worn bearings announce themselves through a humming or grinding noise that changes with speed, or a wheel that feels warm to the touch after a drive. Catch it early and it's a straightforward service job; ignore it and you risk a wheel seizing or coming off entirely. Use a quality high-temperature wheel-bearing grease (NLGI No. 2 lithium-complex with EP and corrosion inhibitors), and if the old grease comes out milky or grey, water has got in — repack immediately.
For the full deep-dive on bearings — warning signs, grease selection and a step-by-step service — see our dedicated camper trailer wheel bearings guide.
| How you use it | Inspect | Repack / replace |
|---|---|---|
| Sealed road, inland, occasional weekends | 12 months | 12 months / ~20,000 km |
| Frequent touring / long trips | 6 months | 12 months |
| Coastal / beach / boat-ramp launches | 3 months | 6 months |
| Outback corrugations / water crossings | after each big trip | 6 months |
Electric Brakes
Hip Summit and Hip Companion campers come with electric brakes as standard, which is exactly what you want on a trailer up to 1,500 kg ATM. Before every trip, confirm the brake controller in your tow vehicle produces noticeable drag. Have the brakes inspected and adjusted every 6 to 12 months (every 6 months for coastal use) — check magnet wear and shoe lining, and confirm the breakaway switch and its battery actually work. Australian vehicle standards require brakes on trailers over 750 kg GTM, with auto-applying breakaway systems on heavier trailers; the national framework is set out by the Department of Infrastructure and Transport. For a deeper explanation of the law and brake controllers, see our electric brakes guide.
Suspension, Coupling and Handbrake
Check the suspension every six months for cracks, corrosion or fatigue, whether you're on the standard leaf-spring setup or the optional independent-suspension upgrade. Look for worn bushings, and make sure the shackle bolts and U-bolts are tight. The coupling should operate smoothly and lock securely onto the tow ball — apply a light grease to the mechanism periodically. Test the handbrake to confirm it holds the trailer on a slope, and adjust or service it if it feels weak.
Leaf Spring vs Independent: Is the Suspension Upgrade Worth It?
Hip campers come with leaf-spring suspension as standard and offer independent suspension as a paid upgrade, and the choice changes what you maintain as much as how the camper rides. Leaf springs win on simplicity and serviceability: every failure point (shackle bolts, U-bolts, spring-eye bushes, a cracked leaf) is visible with a torch, parts are cheap at any trailer supplier in the country, and the six-monthly check in Table 1 covers the lot. At 700–750 kg tare against a 1,500 kg ATM, the springs never work near their limit — which is why leaf remains the sensible default for sealed-road and gravel touring.
Independent suspension wins on corrugation comfort. Each wheel moves on its own arm with its own damping, so the tyres keep better contact on rough surfaces and far less shudder reaches the shell, the cabinetry and your gear. The trade-offs are real: more cost up front and more moving parts — bushes and shock absorbers are wear items that need the same six-monthly eyeball.
The rule of thumb for a sub-750 kg teardrop: mostly sealed highway with the odd gravel track, and the standard leaf setup will do the job for the life of the camper; regular corrugated-track touring, and the independent upgrade earns its price in ride quality and reduced vibration wear on everything bolted to the trailer. Either way, inspect every six months and look hard after any big corrugated run.
12V Power: Battery and Solar Care
Your house battery is the component most often killed by neglect — and it usually dies in storage, not on the road. Hip campers ship with a 120Ah LiFePO4 battery, 100W of solar and a 2000W inverter, and lithium is genuinely the low-maintenance choice. It still benefits from a few good habits. For the full system picture, see our 12V power systems guide.
| Care point | LiFePO4 (Hip standard) | AGM (lead-acid) |
|---|---|---|
| Don't discharge below | 10–20% | 50% |
| Ideal storage charge | ~50–60% | 100% (kept topped up) |
| Trickle charger in storage? | Not needed (BMS handles it) | Yes — strongly recommended |
| Charging below 0°C | Blocked by BMS | Reduced / avoid |
| Usable capacity | ~90%+ | ~50% |
| Routine care | Clean terminals; store cool & dry | Clean terminals; corrosion check |
The LiFePO4 dos: keep it between about 20% and 80% in storage, use a charger designed for lithium (the profile differs from AGM), store the camper somewhere cool and shaded, and clean the terminals occasionally to keep charging efficient. The don'ts: don't leave it flat for weeks — deep discharge followed by long storage is the fastest way to damage the cells; don't charge below 0°C (the built-in Battery Management System normally blocks this, but be aware of it in alpine conditions); and don't ignore a BMS warning. If you're still choosing between chemistries or planning an upgrade, our LiFePO4 vs AGM comparison lays out the differences.
Solar Panel Care
The roof-mounted 100W solar panel is the engine of your off-grid setup, and it works best clean. Dust, bird droppings and tree sap all cut output noticeably. A wipe-down with a damp cloth and mild detergent before each trip keeps it at full capacity — avoid abrasive pads or harsh chemicals that could scratch the surface. Twice a year, inspect the solar connections, the MPPT controller leads and any Anderson plugs for corrosion. If you're thinking about adding capacity, our solar sizing guide covers how much you actually need.
Water System Maintenance
Standing water in tanks and lines becomes a breeding ground for bacteria, especially in warm Australian summers. Keeping your 80L fresh-water system clean is straightforward but essential — and it's the difference between water that tastes fine and water you won't want to drink.
- After every trip: Drain the tank and lines completely and leave the taps open so residual water flows out. This stops stagnant water sitting in the system.
- Every 6–12 months: Sanitise the tank and lines. The simple, food-safe method is to drain the tank, add a mild unscented household bleach solution, run every tap and the outdoor shower until you smell it coming through, leave it a few hours, then flush two or three times with fresh water until the smell is gone. A tablespoon of sodium percarbonate (unscented nappy cleaner) per tank is a gentler alternative. Guidance on safe drinking water is available from the Better Health Channel.
- Every six months: Inspect the 12V pump, hoses and fittings for wear, cracking or leaks, and listen for the pump short-cycling when the taps are closed (a sign of an air leak or loose fitting). Replace any dodgy-looking hose clamps — they're cheap and prevent messy failures.
- Instant hot water: Hip campers include instant hot water. Before any extended storage, drain the unit per its manual so no water sits inside it over winter.
Good to know: Always fill with a food-grade drinking-water hose (the white or blue kind). A standard green garden hose can leach chemicals and flavour into your tank. A dedicated food-grade hose is inexpensive and worth keeping in your kit.
Galley and Interior Care
The full stainless-steel galley is one of the best features of a teardrop, and keeping it in good nick is mostly common sense. Wipe the benchtop down after each use with a mild kitchen spray, and pay attention to the area around the sink — water pooling at edges and seams causes problems over time. Stainless is forgiving, but standing water and salty hands are not, so dry it off after coastal trips.
There's no built-in cooktop, so you cook on your own portable cooker. The standard gas-bottle holder is simply a bracket for your own bottle — check that the bracket and strap stay secure, and if you carry a bottle for a portable cooker, inspect the bottle, hose and regulator according to the bottle and cooker manufacturer's instructions (the usual soapy-water bubble test picks up any leak in that equipment). Keep the fridge ventilation area clear of dust and debris; a fridge that can't breathe works harder, drains more battery and cools less effectively. Inside the cabin, vacuum out grit, check that the 12V fridge mount and any drawer runners haven't loosened after corrugated roads, and air the bedding to keep things fresh.
Coastal, Outback and Seasonal Care
Australia's climate varies wildly depending on where you live and where you travel, and your maintenance routine should reflect that. A weekend near Melbourne asks less of your camper than a lap of the coast or a run up a corrugated outback track.
Coastal Travel: Corrosion Is the Number-One Job
Salt is the enemy. If you camp or store within a few kilometres of the ocean, treat corrosion control as your most important maintenance task. Rinse the underbody, chassis and wheels with fresh water the same day as any beach or boat-ramp trip — salt left to dry is what kills chassis, bearings and electrical connectors. Inspect the chassis, drawbar and welds for surface rust every six months and touch up any chips immediately. Once a year, spray a lanolin-based corrosion inhibitor (such as lanolin or fish oil) on exposed bolts, the coupling, shackle pins, U-bolts and electrical terminals, and keep the chassis drain holes clear so water never pools inside the rails. This is exactly why a hot-dip galvanised chassis matters: galvanising self-protects the scratches that painted steel can't, which is one reason it's standard on every Hip camper.
Summer: UV and Heat
UV is the biggest summer concern. The Australian sun fades paint, degrades rubber seals and dries out tyres faster than almost anywhere on earth. Park in shade where you can, use a cover during storage, and stay on top of tyre age. Battery storage temperature matters too — a lithium battery baking in a 45°C shed is not ideal, so if your garage gets extremely hot, bring the battery indoors during the peak of summer.
Winter: Condensation
If you camp in cooler regions — the Victorian High Country, the Snowy Mountains or Tasmania — condensation becomes a bigger issue both on trips and in storage. Ventilation is critical: run a small fan or crack a vent when sleeping to reduce interior moisture, and dry the cabin thoroughly before storing after a winter trip. Our winter camping guide covers staying warm and dry in detail.
Outback and Dust
Red dust gets absolutely everywhere. After a dusty trip, clean the solar panel, wash the exterior, and check that dust hasn't clogged any vents or built up around the galley. Dust in electrical connections causes intermittent faults, so inspect and clean the terminals if you've been on unsealed roads for a while. For state-specific off-grid touring, see our guides for Queensland and Western Australia.
Storing Your Teardrop Between Trips
How you store the camper has a real impact on how much maintenance it needs. A trailer left neglected in the weather deteriorates far faster than one stored with a bit of thought.
- Location: Undercover is best — a garage, carport or shed shields it from UV and rain. If that's not an option, park on a hard, level surface rather than grass or dirt (which holds moisture against the underside), and use a quality breathable cover. Avoid non-breathable covers, which trap condensation and cause their own damage.
- Ventilation: Crack a window or roof vent slightly for airflow. A small rechargeable dehumidifier or moisture absorber placed inside works wonders against the musty smell and mould that sealed-up trailers develop.
- Battery: Set a LiFePO4 battery to around 50–60% and it's happy to sit disconnected in a cool, dry place; an AGM should stay fully charged on a trickle or solar maintainer. Check it monthly either way.
- Tyres: For lay-ups longer than a month, put the trailer on jack stands to prevent flat spots, or at least inflate the tyres to the upper end of the range first.
- Water: Drain the tank and lines completely and leave the taps open so the pump doesn't build pressure against a closed system.
- Pests: Mice and insects love a cosy, unoccupied trailer — a real problem in rural Australia. Block gaps around pipes and cables with steel wool, and consider peppermint-oil-soaked cotton balls as a natural deterrent.
What Teardrop Maintenance Actually Costs
Most teardrop maintenance is genuinely DIY-friendly, and it's a fraction of a caravan's service bill. Here's a realistic 2026 cost picture for an Australian owner — and if you want the full ownership numbers including insurance, registration and depreciation, our cost of ownership guide has the lot.
| Task | DIY cost | Professional service |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-trip checks (tyres, lights, coupling) | Free | — |
| Exterior wash & polish (2×/yr) | ~$30 materials | $120–$250 detail |
| Wheel bearing repack (per axle) | ~$30 grease + seals | $150–$300 |
| Electric brake inspect & adjust | DIY if confident | $120–$250 |
| Water tank sanitise | ~$5 bleach | — |
| Annual corrosion treatment (lanolin) | ~$40 | included in service |
| Indicative annual total | ~$100–$150 | ~$400–$700 |
The takeaway: a teardrop costs around $100–$150 a year to maintain yourself, or a few hundred if a trailer specialist does the running gear. Either way it's far cheaper than the canvas replacement and re-proofing a soft-floor camper needs over the same period — another reason a hard-shell teardrop holds its value, as we cover in is a teardrop camper worth it.
What Can You DIY, and What Needs a Workshop?
A simple three-bucket rule covers every job in this guide — and protects your warranty at the same time.
- DIY for everyone: washing, seal conditioning, water-tank sanitising, tyre pressures, battery storage habits and corrosion treatment. Nothing here needs more than a hose, a multimeter and a tin of lanolin spray.
- DIY if you're mechanically confident: wheel-bearing repacks and electric-brake adjustment. Both are single-axle jobs on a Hip camper, covered step by step in our wheel bearings and electric brakes guides, and routine servicing like this doesn't void your warranty — it's expected. Keep dated notes and receipts for warranty claims and resale.
- Workshop — or us: running-gear work beyond a repack, 12V faults you can't trace to a terminal or fuse, and any fixed electrical work (legally a licensed electrician's job). Inside the 24-month structural or 12-month warranty on fittings and components, contact us before paying anyone: our own technicians and contractors service at your home address, including in WA, so a warranty fault is fixed where the camper lives.
Warranty, Servicing and When to Call a Professional
Most of this guide is DIY, but some jobs are worth handing over — and some are covered. Every Hip camper comes with a 24-month structural warranty and a 12-month warranty on fittings and components. The 12V system is wired and tested by our in-house qualified electrician, a fully certified tradesman with more than 20 years of experience, and every camper is finished and inspected in Melbourne before it ships. On origin: Hip campers are imported, then finished and inspected in Melbourne, and certified for Australian roads through the Register of Approved Vehicles (RAV) via the ROVER process before you register the trailer in your own state.
If something does need attention, our own Western Australia technicians and contractors can service the camper at your home postcode, so you're not left chasing a stranger. Leave any fixed electrical work to a licensed electrician — state regulators such as Energy Safe Victoria set the rules for who can legally do it. It's also worth knowing your consumer rights: the ACCC consumer guarantees apply on top of any manufacturer's warranty. And because registration and roadworthiness rules vary by state — see, for example, the Queensland transport registration pages — keep your compliance plate details and service history handy for inspections, insurance claims and resale.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I service my teardrop camper in Australia?
Do a ten-minute walk-around check before and after every trip (tyres, wheel nuts, lights, electric brakes, coupling, water and battery). Do a light inspection every one to three months, and a proper service every 6 to 12 months or 10,000 km, whichever comes first: repack the wheel bearings, adjust the electric brakes, sanitise the water tank, inspect the seals and check all electrical connections. Coastal and off-road owners should roughly halve the bearing and corrosion intervals.
How do I store my teardrop camper between trips?
Store it under cover on a hard, level surface, or outside under a quality breathable cover. Drain the water tanks and lines completely and leave the taps open. Keep a LiFePO4 battery at around 50 to 60 percent charge in a cool, dry place; an AGM battery should stay fully charged on a trickle charger. Crack a roof vent or add a moisture absorber to prevent condensation and mould, block any gaps against mice and insects, and move the trailer or take weight off the tyres every few weeks for long lay-ups.
How do I look after the LiFePO4 battery in my Hip camper?
Hip Summit and Hip Companion campers ship with a 120Ah LiFePO4 battery, which is largely self-managing thanks to its built-in Battery Management System. Use up to about 90 percent of its capacity in use, but store it at roughly 50 to 60 percent rather than full or flat, keep it cool and dry, and clean the terminals occasionally. There is no need for a permanent trickle charger. Avoid charging below 0 degrees Celsius (the BMS normally blocks this) and keep the 100W solar panel clean so it charges efficiently.
How often do trailer wheel bearings need repacking?
For sealed-road, inland, occasional use, inspect and repack the wheel bearings every 12 months or about 20,000 km. Step that up for harder use: inspect every 6 months and repack every 12 months for frequent touring, and inspect every 3 months and repack every 6 months if you launch at boat ramps or camp near the coast. Milky or grey grease means water has got in — repack straight away. A grinding hum that changes with speed, or a hub that is hot to touch after a drive, are the classic warning signs.
What is the most important maintenance for coastal owners?
Corrosion control. Rinse the underbody, chassis and wheels with fresh water the same day as any beach or boat-ramp trip, because salt left to dry attacks bearings, bolts and electrical connectors. Inspect the chassis and welds every six months, repack wheel bearings every six months with a saltwater-resistant grease, and spray a lanolin-based protectant on the coupling, shackle pins, U-bolts and terminals once a year. A hot-dip galvanised chassis, which is standard on Hip campers, self-protects against surface scratches that painted steel cannot.
How do I keep my camper's water tank clean and safe to drink?
Drain the tank and lines after every trip so water never sits stagnant, and fill only with a food-grade drinking-water hose. Sanitise the 80L fresh-water system every 6 to 12 months, or sooner if the water tastes or smells off: drain it, add a mild unscented bleach solution, run it through every tap until you smell it, leave it a few hours, then flush two or three times with fresh water until the smell is gone. Sodium percarbonate (unscented nappy cleaner) is a gentler alternative.
Does Hip Campers service the camper, and what warranty applies?
Hip campers come with a 24-month structural warranty and a 12-month warranty on fittings and components. The 12V system is wired and tested by our in-house qualified electrician with more than 20 years of experience, and every camper is finished and inspected in Melbourne before it ships. If something needs attention, our own Western Australia technicians and contractors can service the camper at your home postcode, so you are not left chasing a third party.
Can I do teardrop camper maintenance myself?
Yes. Washing, water-tank sanitising, pre-trip checks, seal conditioning and corrosion treatment are all easy driveway jobs. Wheel bearings and electric-brake adjustment are DIY if you are mechanically confident, or a trailer specialist will do them for roughly $150 to $300 per axle. Budget around $100 to $150 a year doing it yourself. Any fixed electrical work should be left to a licensed electrician.
What are the most common problems with teardrop campers?
The recurring seven: worn wheel bearings, electric brakes out of adjustment, 12V electrical gremlins, water ingress at door and hatch seals, tyres ageing out or flat-spotting, corrosion on fasteners and connectors, and door or hatch misalignment after rough roads. All are preventable: service bearings and brakes every 6 to 12 months, condition seals twice a year, replace tyres at five to seven years regardless of tread, rinse the underbody the same day as any coastal trip, and keep hinges lubricated. For context, the ACCC's 2022 New Caravan Retailing survey of 2,270 owners found around 80 percent reported a fault with their new caravan or camper trailer — a teardrop's simplicity is your best defence.
Is independent suspension worth it on a teardrop camper?
It depends on where you tow. On a sub-750 kg teardrop doing mostly sealed roads and the odd gravel track, the standard leaf-spring setup is proven, cheap to service and never works near its limit, so the upgrade adds little. If you regularly tour corrugated outback tracks, independent suspension earns its price in ride comfort and reduced vibration through the shell and cabinetry. Whichever you run, inspect the suspension every six months — leaf packs for cracked leaves and loose U-bolts, independent setups for worn bushes and leaking shock absorbers.
Will doing my own maintenance void my Hip Campers warranty?
No. Routine owner maintenance — washing, seal care, water-tank sanitising, bearing repacks and brake adjustment — is expected, and keeping dated records of it strengthens any claim. Hip campers carry a 24-month structural warranty and a 12-month warranty on fittings and components; if a fault appears in that window, contact us before paying for repairs, because our own technicians and contractors service at your home address, including in WA. Leave fixed electrical work to a licensed electrician, and remember that Australian Consumer Law consumer guarantees apply on top of the written warranty.
Look After Your Camper and It'll Look After You
None of this is complicated. A teardrop is one of the simplest trailers you can own, and the maintenance demands reflect that. Spend two hours a year on the schedule above — keep the running gear serviced so you're safe at highway speed, fight corrosion if you camp near the coast, and store the camper dry with the battery at the right charge — and it will stay safe, dry and on the road for two decades. The key is consistency: regular small efforts prevent big, expensive problems.
For more practical advice, browse our guides on off-grid camping with solar and water, the complete teardrop camping checklist, and the best teardrop campers in Australia. You can also compare the Hip Summit and Hip Companion, build your own in the 3D configurator, check current stock, or read our full FAQ.
Got a question about maintaining your Hip camper, or want to see the range in person? Get in touch — we're always happy to help.