If you've shopped teardrop campers in Australia, you've seen "electric brakes" listed as a spec on almost every model above about 1,000 kg. It's one of those lines that's easy to glance past — until you're towing 1.5 tonnes down a wet hill into a roundabout, and you find out exactly why it's there.
This guide answers the question most first-time buyers actually have — do I legally need electric brakes on a teardrop camper, and how do I know mine are set up right? — then covers what electric brakes are, the role of the in-cab brake controller, what an inspector looks for at a roadworthy check, how they're maintained, and the failure modes worth knowing. Both the Hip Summit and Hip Companion ship with electric brakes as standard, but the principles apply to any trailer in this segment.
The short answer: In Australia a trailer needs brakes on at least one axle once its Gross Trailer Mass (GTM) passes 750 kg, and brakes on all wheels plus a breakaway system past 2,000 kg. These limits are national, so they don't change between states. Almost every off-grid teardrop lands in the braked band — the Hip Summit and Companion sit at 1,380 kg GTM — which is why electric brakes are standard, not optional, on both.
What electric brakes are
Electric brakes are drum brakes inside the trailer's wheel hubs, with a magnet inside each drum. The magnet is activated by a current sent from a brake controller in your tow vehicle. When the controller sends current — either because you've pressed your brake pedal, or because the controller detected vehicle deceleration — the magnet engages a friction shoe against the spinning brake drum, which slows the trailer.
The current flow is variable. A light brake press gives a small magnet engagement and gentle trailer braking. A hard brake press gives full engagement and aggressive trailer braking. The system is essentially analog: more pedal, more trailer brake.
This is fundamentally different from a few alternatives you'll still see in the market:
- Override (or "surge") brakes: Mechanical-only brakes that engage when the trailer pushes into the back of the tow vehicle during deceleration. Common on lighter rental trailers and boat trailers. They work, but the response is less proportional and there's no way to apply them manually from the cab.
- Electric-over-hydraulic: Same idea as electric brakes but the controller activates a hydraulic actuator instead of a magnet. Common on heavier off-road caravans (2.5 tonnes+). Smoother modulation, more expensive.
- Electronic over-actuated air brakes: Truck-style. Not relevant to camper trailers.
For Australian camper trailers in the 1.0–2.0 tonne range — which covers every off-grid teardrop and most off-road campers — pure electric drum brakes are the standard. They're proven, repairable, and well-supported by the brake controller market.
| Brake type | Apply manually from cab? | Proportional? | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric drum | Yes (via controller) | Yes (with a proportional controller) | Teardrops & camper trailers, 0.75–2.0 t |
| Override / surge | No | Partial (mechanical) | Boat & light rental trailers |
| Electric-over-hydraulic | Yes (via controller) | Yes | Heavy off-road caravans, 2.5 t+ |
Do teardrop campers need electric brakes? (the law, by weight)
Yes — in almost every case. The Australian Design Rules (ADR), as set out for light trailers in the national Vehicle Standards Bulletin 1 (VSB 1), set trailer brake requirements by Gross Trailer Mass (GTM) — the weight carried by the trailer's own wheels once it's loaded (roughly its ATM minus the load resting on the tow ball):
- Under 750 kg GTM: No brakes legally required.
- 750–2,000 kg GTM: Brakes required on at least one axle. Any type — override, electric, or hydraulic.
- 2,000–4,500 kg GTM: Brakes required on all wheels, plus a breakaway system that automatically applies the brakes if the trailer detaches.
- Over 4,500 kg GTM: Different rules — outside the camper trailer segment.
These thresholds come from the national standard, so they're the same in every state and territory — Victoria, NSW, Queensland, WA, SA, Tasmania, the ACT and NT all apply the same GTM breakpoints. What varies by state is enforcement, not the weight at which brakes become mandatory: when a trailer needs registration and how often it's inspected differs (for example, some states require a roadworthy or safety certificate when a trailer is sold or re-registered, while others don't routinely inspect light trailers). If you're unsure, confirm with your state road authority — VicRoads, Transport for NSW, Queensland's TMR, WA's DoT, and so on — but the brake requirement itself doesn't move.
Most teardrop campers sit at 1,000–1,500 kg GTM, which puts them firmly in the brakes-required band. Here's exactly where our two models land:
| Model | Tare | ATM | GTM | Brakes required? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hip Summit | 700–750 kg | 1,500 kg | 1,380 kg | Yes — single axle (fitted as standard) |
| Hip Companion | 700–750 kg | 1,500 kg | 1,380 kg | Yes — single axle (fitted as standard) |
At 1,380 kg GTM both models sit comfortably inside the 750–2,000 kg band, so electric brakes on the axle are mandatory — and both ship with them as a structural part of the spec, not an optional add-on. They're also below the 2,000 kg mark, so a breakaway system isn't legally required (more on that below). For the full weight picture — payload, tow-ball download, and what fits your vehicle — see what's included on the Summit and Companion and the weights section of our FAQ.
A trailer driven without functioning brakes when its GTM requires them is unroadworthy, and your insurance position in any incident is severely compromised — which is exactly what an inspector is checking for.
What happens at a roadworthy or roadside check
For a first-time buyer this is the part that causes the most quiet anxiety, so here's the plain version. Trailer brakes are a standard item on any roadworthy (safety) inspection, and they're something police and transport inspectors can check at the roadside. An inspector isn't trying to catch you out — they're confirming the trailer can stop the load it's rated to carry.
In practice they're looking for four things:
- That brakes are fitted when the GTM requires them — for anything in the teardrop weight range, that means functioning brakes on the axle.
- That they actually engage — a quick test with the controller's manual override, or on a brake tester, showing the trailer wheels bite.
- A working brake controller in the tow vehicle, since electric brakes are dead without one.
- Sound wiring and a clean connector — no chafed cables, no green corrosion in the 7-pin plug.
Fail any of these on a trailer that legally needs brakes and it's deemed unroadworthy: at the roadside that can mean a defect notice and being told not to tow until it's rectified; at a booked inspection it means the certificate is withheld until you re-present. The good news is that the most common reasons for a fail are also the quickest to fix — a corroded connector, or a controller wound down to zero gain — which is why we suggest the 40 km/h override test (below) before every trip. Buy from us and each Hip Camper leaves with its brakes pre-adjusted and documented, so you start on the right side of that check.
The brake controller: the part most buyers forget
The brakes are in the trailer. The brake controller is in your tow vehicle. They're sold separately because the controller has to be matched to your vehicle's wiring and your towing preferences.
Two main types:
Time-delayed controllers
When you press your brake pedal, the controller applies a preset percentage of trailer braking, ramping up over a fixed time. Simple, cheap. Doesn't respond to how hard you're actually braking — a light tap and a hard slam apply the same trailer braking force.
Proportional (inertia-sensing) controllers
Use an internal accelerometer to detect how hard the vehicle is actually decelerating, and apply the trailer brake in proportion. Smoother on light braking, more aggressive on hard braking. This is what you want for any serious touring. Common brands include Tekonsha P3, Redarc Tow-Pro Elite, and Hayman Reese Compact IQ.
| Controller | Type | Approx. price (fitted) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Factory-integrated (many 4WDs/utes) | Proportional | Included with tow pack | Prado, LandCruiser 300, Ranger, BT-50 — check first |
| Basic time-delayed unit | Time-delayed | $150–$300 | Occasional, flat-road towing on a budget |
| Tekonsha P3 | Proportional | ~$400–$550 | Regular touring; clear digital display |
| Redarc Tow-Pro Elite | Proportional | ~$450–$650 | Off-road; dial control, clean dash install |
| Hayman Reese Compact IQ | Proportional | ~$400–$550 | Compact cabins; small footprint |
A brake controller install on a modern tow vehicle is a 1–2 hour job for an auto electrician, typically $400–$700 fitted including the controller itself — a one-off you can fold into the wider cost of owning a camper trailer. Many newer 4WDs come with factory-fitted controllers (Toyota Prado, LandCruiser 300, Ford Ranger, Mazda BT-50, various dual-cabs) — check before paying for one. Because both our models are light (700–750 kg tare), they're comfortably towed by plenty of mid-size family SUVs and even some EVs, not just big 4WDs; a mid-size SUV usually takes an aftermarket controller, while most factory tow packs already include one. We cover the specifics in towing a camper with a RAV4 and towing a teardrop camper with an EV.
We don't supply or install brake controllers with the Hip Summit because they have to match the tow vehicle. But we'll talk through the right controller for your vehicle if you ask.
How to adjust electric brakes
Electric brakes have two adjustments: the controller gain (in the cab), and the brake shoe adjustment (at the hub).
Controller gain
Set on every trip. Too low and the trailer doesn't pull its weight, you feel it pushing the tow vehicle on hard stops. Too high and the trailer wheels lock up under braking, especially on gravel. The right setting depends on load weight and road surface — most controllers have a knob you tune by feel after each setup.
The standard test: drive at 40 km/h on a flat surface, press the brake controller's manual override slider only (no foot brake). The trailer should slow firmly without locking. Too soft, increase gain. Tyres lock, decrease gain.
Brake shoe adjustment
Done at the hub, typically every 5,000 km or before any long trip. With the wheel jacked and free-spinning, an adjuster star wheel inside the drum is rotated until the shoes drag lightly against the drum, then backed off slightly. This compensates for shoe wear and keeps the brakes consistent across both wheels. It's a 20-minute job per axle for anyone comfortable with a jack and a brake adjustment tool.
Both the Hip Summit and Companion come pre-adjusted before delivery. After the first 1,000 km we recommend a re-check because new shoes wear in.
Common failure modes
Electric brakes fail in predictable ways. In rough order of frequency:
Corroded connectors at the trailer plug
This is by far the most common cause of "the trailer brakes stopped working." Salt, dust, and water get into the 7-pin trailer connector and corrode the brake-signal pin. Fix: clean both halves of the connector with electrical contact cleaner, apply dielectric grease, re-test. We recommend doing this every 6 months in coastal use.
Worn brake shoes
After 30,000–50,000 km of mixed use, shoes wear thin and stopping distance grows. Replacement is straightforward and parts are widely available. Don't wait for "metal on metal" — replace before that point.
Magnet failure
The brake magnet inside the drum is a wear item. It can fail electrically (open circuit) or mechanically (cracked face). Symptoms: that wheel doesn't engage. Test by measuring resistance across the brake wires — typical reading is 3.2 ohms per magnet. Open circuit means the magnet is dead.
Wiring chafing
The wires from the chassis to each brake travel along the trailing arm or axle. They can chafe against suspension components over years of off-road use. A wiring inspection during shoe replacement catches this.
Controller failure
Less common, but possible. A controller that's lost its sensitivity (proportional models) will need recalibrating or replacing.
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Trailer brakes stopped working entirely | Corroded 7-pin connector / brake-signal pin | Clean both halves, contact cleaner + dielectric grease, re-test |
| Controller shows "no trailer connected" | Broken wire or bad earth | Check the earth and brake-signal wire back to the plug |
| One wheel doesn't brake | Failed magnet (open circuit) | Measure resistance (~3.2 Ω); replace the magnet if open |
| Weak braking / trailer pushes the car | Controller gain too low, or worn shoes | Raise gain; if still weak, adjust or replace shoes |
| Wheels lock on light braking | Controller gain too high | Lower gain until the wheels bite without locking |
| Grinding / longer stopping distance | Shoes worn past the service limit | Replace shoes before metal-on-metal (30,000–50,000 km) |
Both Hip Campers models ship with a service-friendly brake setup: standard parts, accessible wiring runs, and a sealed brake plug. Maintenance is well within what a reasonably handy owner can do at home.
A note on heavy off-road use
If you regularly do corrugated dirt tracks (Gibb River, Tanami, Anne Beadell), you'll see brake wear and connector corrosion accelerate. The vibrations rattle adjusters loose, dust ingresses into the drum, and wiring chafe is more likely. Build a quick brake check into your pre-departure routine — the same one we cover in our camper trailer camping checklist. Recommendations for serious off-road owners:
- Inspect brakes before and after every major trip. Don't wait for a service interval.
- Carry spare brake magnets and a spare 7-pin plug. They're light, cheap, and bush-replaceable.
- Use dielectric grease liberally on every connector. Re-grease every trip.
- Consider a Tekonsha breakaway switch even if you're not legally required to have one — it triggers the trailer brakes if the trailer detaches, which on a corrugated track is genuinely possible.
Electric brake maintenance schedule
Kept to a simple schedule, electric brakes are close to fit-and-forget. Here's the at-a-glance service interval for a teardrop in typical Australian conditions — bring each one forward for coastal salt air or heavy corrugations:
| Task | Interval | DIY? |
|---|---|---|
| Test brakes with the controller override (40 km/h test) | Before every trip | Yes |
| Clean & grease the 7-pin connector | Every 6 months (every trip if coastal/off-road) | Yes |
| Brake shoe adjustment | Every 5,000 km or before a long trip | Yes (jack + brake tool) |
| Inspect magnets, shoes & wiring | Every 10,000 km or annually | Moderate |
| Replace brake shoes | 30,000–50,000 km (before metal-on-metal) | Moderate |
What we include on the Hip Summit and Companion
Brakes are one of the specs where "standard" actually means standard. On both the Hip Summit and Hip Companion, every unit leaves with:
- Electric drum brakes on the axle (both wheels), on a hot-dip galvanised chassis
- Standard 7-pin trailer plug and 50 mm ball coupling
- Brakes pre-adjusted before delivery, then a recommended re-check at the first 1,000 km
- Documentation on the brake spec for your records, plus a service guide
We don't include a brake controller — that's vehicle-side and has to match your tow vehicle. We don't fit a breakaway system as standard because both models sit at 1,380 kg GTM, below the 2,000 kg point that legally requires one; if you're heading remote, we're happy to talk through adding a breakaway switch anyway.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do teardrop campers need electric brakes in Australia?
Yes, if the trailer's Gross Trailer Mass (GTM) is over 750 kg — and almost every off-grid teardrop is. Most sit at 1,000–1,500 kg GTM, which mandates brakes on at least one axle. The Hip Summit and Hip Companion have a 1,380 kg GTM (1,500 kg ATM), so brakes are legally required, and both ship with electric brakes as standard.
Are electric brakes legally required on a camper trailer in Australia?
Brakes are required on at least one axle for any trailer over 750 kg GTM, and on all wheels plus a breakaway system above 2,000 kg GTM. These thresholds are national (Australian Design Rules), so they don't change from state to state. Most teardrops sit in the 1,000–1,500 kg range, so single-axle brakes are mandatory.
Do the Hip Summit and Hip Companion come with electric brakes?
Yes. Both models come with electric drum brakes on both wheels of the single axle as standard — not an option — on a hot-dip galvanised chassis, and each set is pre-adjusted before delivery. At 1,380 kg GTM they legally require brakes, and they're built in from the spec sheet up.
Do I need a brake controller in my tow vehicle?
Yes. Electric brakes don't work without an in-cab brake controller. Many modern 4WDs and dual-cabs (Prado, LandCruiser 300, Ranger, BT-50) come with one factory-fitted; for everything else an aftermarket controller fits any vehicle for around $400–$700 installed.
Is a breakaway system required on a teardrop camper?
Only above 2,000 kg GTM. The Hip Summit and Companion sit at 1,380 kg GTM, so a breakaway system isn't legally required. It's still a cheap, worthwhile safety add for serious corrugated-road touring, because it applies the trailer brakes automatically if the trailer ever detaches.
What happens if my trailer brakes fail a roadworthy or roadside check?
A trailer that legally needs brakes but doesn't have working ones is unroadworthy. At a roadside inspection that can mean a defect notice and being told not to tow until it's fixed, and in any incident your insurance position is severely compromised. The usual culprit is a corroded connector or a controller set to zero gain — both quick fixes — so test your brakes before every trip.
Are time-delayed brake controllers OK?
They work and they're legal, but proportional (inertia-sensing) controllers are smoother and safer on long trips. If you're doing more than occasional towing, a Tekonsha P3 or Redarc Tow-Pro Elite is worth the upgrade.
How long do electric brakes last?
Shoes typically last 30,000–50,000 km. Magnets last similar. Drums last the life of the trailer with normal use. Corrosion-related failures (connectors, wiring) are far more common than wear-related ones for most camper trailer owners.
Can I do electric brake maintenance myself?
Yes. Brake shoe adjustment, connector cleaning, and basic wiring inspection are home-mechanic level. Magnet or shoe replacement is moderately more involved but well-documented. We provide a service guide with each Hip Camper.
Next step
Brakes aren't the most exciting line on a spec sheet, but they're one of the few that genuinely affect your safety — and, done right, they're a check you never have to think about again. If you've got a question about the braked spec on either model, your tow vehicle's compatibility, or how to maintain electric brakes in your conditions, send it through.
You can get in touch to check current availability, see what's ready to go in current stock, or build your own in 3D to spec a Summit or Companion exactly how you want it — brakes included as standard, every time.